Travels of Bobbi and Alex

Mahalo

2010-06-06T18:20:00.001-07:00

We will be leaving for Hawaii soon, doing very fun things during a summer vacation celebrating Bobbi's 30th birthday! Stay tuned for pictures and reports of all things awesome.

Costa Rica - Day 8

2009-06-29T21:10:00.000-07:00

Waking early, I find myself excited and a little frightened at the same time. In about 30 minutes, Alex and I are set up to taste white water. We head towards breakfast to grab some coffee before the drive. The trip includes breakfast and lunch, so all we needed was a change of clothes. After what seemed liked more than 30 minutes, a man asked us for our vouchers… what vouchers? I was never given any vouchers, all I had was a kinda confirmation e-mail. But that is how most places roll, to say ya ya ok-if you show up you’re confirmed. In my broken Spanglish, I managed to figure out that the rafting trip was never confirmed due to error on the hotel. We had to renegotiate breakfast because the first time through we only got coffee- assuming there would breakfast on the bus. Tired, cold and hungry, I called upstairs to wake my best friend.

Starting the day over with my camera in tow, we scheduled a tour of a local coffee plantation. Café Brit was located about 40 minutes from town and was half the price of the rafting trip. Once on the property, a few slap-stick actors explained how coffee was grown, picked and processed. Coming form wine-county, it all had a familiar flavor. I was glad to learn that at home, we are taking the right steps towards sustainable coffee. Most of the mega-large coffee growers grow in cleared patches of the rain forest with little shade and lots of harsh chemicals. A few of the higher end coffees are grown in large crops with a few trees dotting the crop for cooling shade and range the full spectrum from organic to heavily processed. The best coffees, both tasting and sustainable are biodynamically grown under naturally occurring canopies. At home we have recently switched from Illy- one of my favorite food loves, to an environmentally friendly locally produced coffee that tastes just as good.

Later, in the Central Market, my camera did little but make me look like I had something valuable to steal. The $2000 worth of plastic and glass tucked tightly under my arm, and strapped across my back, would have meant half a year of feasting to any local that could manage to get my investment from my grips.

Costa Rica - Day 7

2009-01-29T19:31:00.000-08:00

In the breakfast line, I could feel my stomach churning because of the greasy smelling food. Even juice repulsed me. I knew I should eat because I haven’t for three days, but I just couldn’t find it in me. The drive later would be long, and I am not about to spend four hours in the car feeling ill again.

Strangely, I look forward to being driven through the rain forest on my way to the next destination. It really gives me a sense of the town and the culture. This day, like most we have spent here in Costa Rica, it is raining with a chance of meatballs. Thick clouds swirl around the summit of one of the mountains we cross, making it difficult to see. But it adds to magic of the misty rainforest. Ten feet from the side of our van, is a jungle ravine that plunges straight down. Inches from our wheels, there is a drainage run-off area that is nearly three feet wide and just as deep. The road switches left, then right and then left again. All the while, aggressive drivers pass on blind curves and double yellow lines. Our own van is too close for comfort to the next car in line. I can barely read the next license plate number from my position in the middle seat. Giving in to the fact that this is third world driving, in a foreign county, I decide it’s best not to tell the diver how I think he should be driving. I just kept my eyes on the road. Seconds later it all turned to shit. Two car spaces ahead of us a jeep misjudged the power of the wet road. They tried to correct and that only got them in more trouble. The passenger wheel grabbed the edge of the drainage ditch and started to pull the jeep in. Just like it was rehearsed, the back wheel left the ground and the underside of the rental car was visible. The three tires I could see- all in the air, where all spinning. As the jeep continued to go over, glass sprayed across the road and the top crunched in like a coke can. The jeep finally came to a rest, perpendicular to the road and upside-down in the ditch. I could see luggage tossed about, looking like linen in the dryer. Another car about ten behind us skidded in to the drainage area after it came around a blind curve. The eight or so of us in the van were dazed and grateful for our own safety. Watching the car to see if any emerges, I bravely claim, “what if they’re hurt, we need to help them!” All us snapped out of the daze and went for the door. In the second between getting out of the car and looking up again, someone else was already reaching their arms into the overturned jeep. Out came a woman looking more concerned about what was still in the car more then her own life. Our driver then shouts in Spanish to get back in the van, and close the door. A man is now being pulled from a broken window. He has blood on his arm from the glass, but looks mostly ok and undamaged. With us safely back in the car, the driver starts to direct traffic around a blind corner while others direct around the other blind corner behind us. Minutes ago at the summit, I saw a yellow emergency truck that looked like it could go any where and tow any thing. I thought it was odd to be parked at the summit waiting for something to happen. But this is their turf, not mine. They know that when the clouds touch the ground and the roads are wet, people are at the mercy of the rainforest. It would only take a few minutes for word to get around the corner. Drivers eager to get to where ever they are going, start weaving around parked cars and over shoulders that don’t exist. Other drivers start to pass each other and there is now two lanes of cars honking in both directions on a lane that barely contained two single lanes of order. The flashing lights of the truck on steroids crept around the corner. With traffic going every which way the road was impassable. Grabbing their gear, the crew ran to the jeep and starting assessing the situation. Being that we were at the front of the traffic jam, the driver started the van and left the tourist in better hands.
Arriving in San Jose still shaken from the accident, we decided it was best to go to our rooms for a while before dinner. The city was dirty and dark with a creepy vibe even though the sun was still up. Our room couldn’t be more opposite to the city. With a double sized Jacuzzi tub as the main feature of the room, white linens over a king sized bed and décor that felt like it was out of a magazine, I felt like I had found a retreat from all the adventure.

Costa Rica - Day 6

2009-01-29T19:21:00.000-08:00

Stepping out of the hotel and looking left, I saw nothing but black sand, blue water and swaying palms. I looked right and was tickled to see more of the same. Straight ahead, only two shades of blue- one for the Pacific Ocean and one for the sky. The sun was hot and ocean wasn’t far behind. Locals have warned us that the rip tide is worst here in front of our hotel and that we should walk down the beach a few hundred meters.

Janie and Ty have rented boogie-boards to help us pass the time. It’s been a long time since I felt the glee of being a child, but being pushed along the shore with sand in my suit and sun on my back, I felt like I had finally gotten that pony I had been asking for. My smile only faded long enough to spit out the salty and sometimes sandy water. My amigos share this joy, as we trade taking turns on the boards for napping on the beach.

Still unable to eat solid food, we ordered a fresh coconut. At least the juice would give me a little blood sugar. The coconut slinging team said it would cost about 500 colones or about $1 USD. We handed them a 10,000 colones bill and the guy without the machete said he would be right back with cambio or change. Change never came and we were out about $20- our only cash on the beach without going back the hotel. Broke, tired and nowhere to go, I decided to just to nap and people watch until my last turn on the boogie board. Being on a beautiful beach in Costa Rica: $2,000, drinking a coconut: $1, getting ripped off by the dude selling something that grows on every tree around: priceless.

In the water, my skin stung as if I had been slapped with something. Around my feet and belly felt like they were on fire. Getting out to return the boards, I noticed the first sign that I was finally on vacation. I had forgotten my sun screen applying techniques, and applied while wearing clothes. So now my clothes mostly off, I looked like a white and red candy-cane thing of a human. Some how, since I have traveled last, I have gone from being an experienced world traveler to being a first timer gringo. I have the clear stamps across my belly and feet, an empty wallet and still a touch a bad chicken to prove it.

Costa Rica - Day 5

2009-01-26T19:58:00.000-08:00

At breakfast, the world wasn’t quite straight. I didn’t have the strength to figure it out, but something was to one side of normal. Twisting and turning as we climbed out of the rainforest on our way to Jaco, it finally became very clear what was wrong. At first it was small waves of nausea with a sour tummy. Then it was absolutely something I had to deal with, NOW! So much for living like the locals- and eating their food… Maybe if I just keep my eyes on the ground, I’ll make it to the beach and then I’ll be ready to concur the world again. The road bends sharply to the right, and left. The driver then hits the gas to pass only to jerk the van back into the beach going lane. My eyes feel like they are floating on my lunch from the day before. Turning on the ac and sipping on my filtered water seem to ease the feelings for a few minutes. Christian, the driver informs me that because of construction, the drive is going to be 4 hours instead of two and half. That’s when I knew I was hosed. More sharp curves and passing on blind corners with steep gorges to one side or the other. I can only hope no one else can tell that I was white and clammy with my breakfast about ready for it’s encore.

Later at the beach I was in no condition to be in the sun, playing in the undulating water. I retreated to the hotel, while my amigos partied forward. I heard tales of beer, sunscreen and dancing into the night. So much for trying to experience local life.

Costa Rica - Day 4

2009-01-26T19:49:00.001-08:00

We are at the top of the canopy, touching the rain before it touches the ground. The wildlife has created a cacophony for all to hear for miles. Insects give off a loud high-voltage noise, monkeys chatter, the howler monkeys have kind of a growling-hooping call, and the birds screech and whistle over each other. Most of the forest is shrouded with mysterious mist, keeping it sacred secrets. I am snapped out of my daze when I hear the tell tale clip-snap of a carabiner, and then the guide says “ok go!”. Oh dear god what have I done? I know I’m not one to pray, but maybe this is good time to start. All the sounds of the jungle are replaced by a wizzzzizzizizizizizizizzizzzzzzz and all I see is a cable going into the mist. So if there is a God, now would be the time to forgive me for whatever I might have done, PLEASE! No reply, just more wizzzizzzz. My feet are 60 meters from the ground and my end destination is concealed by this damn mist. And oh the rain… it’s just greasing this one centimeter life line that hangs from the sky. Oh God, why did I agree to this, what have I done? The tops of the canopy have released me into the sky and over a gorge, and now the 60 meters have turned uncountable. To afraid to scream, I took my chances with praying again. PLEASE, please, someone just get me off this thing, ALIVE... There is nothing, no booming voice of God, no monkey chatter, no birds, just more wizzzizizizzz- when finally I can see our guide give me the brake signal. Rob and Danny, the two that went before me are laughing with adrenaline. Well if they did ok, then maybe I just might make it, maybe my prayers were heard after all. With my feet back on the platform, I become overwhelmed with trembles. There’s only one way out of this, and that is to ride these cables all the way down to the rainforest floor. Before I can get my wits back, Alex is arriving on the platform. I have never been so happy to see someone. Just eight more lines to go and then we repel 100 feet into a waterfall ravine. Oh boy, it’s gonna be a long hour.

Horses met us in the ravine and lazily trotted up back up to the top of the canopy. Alexander and Kevin lead us to a typical Tico home where the horses are bound and given water. It is only mid-morning, but I don’t think I have an ounce of adrenaline left for more adventures. My belly is aching for food and my mind is raw from descending the canopy with less than an inch of wire and a small metal clip for a lifeline.

We are meeting our friends in town for lunch-to live like locals and relax for a while. After planning such a fabulous trip with my best friend and her boyfriend, I haven‘t really spent much time with them. We have both been going our own ways. And using up my adventure card earlier, I really think it’s something we all need.

Costa Rica - Day 3

2009-01-25T07:59:00.000-08:00

Finally, we have a chance to explore a town and not just a forest. La Fortuna- named for being narrowly missed in the violent (Mt. St. Helens style) eruption of 1968, is a small town. I would say smaller or equal to my hometown back in California. Like most tourist driven areas, there are many shops with handy craft souvenirs, however I know better. Most of these wares are crafted in China with a large logo across the front that reads: COSTA RICA~ PURA VIDA! I bring my tourism dollar to another country in an effort to view the locals, their crafts and support a sometimes failing economy. So today the souvenirs will wait.

It is raining, but that goes with territory of a rain forest… we are well prepared to be in the rain so hopefully it will keep the crowds down. Something else is calling to me besides the shopping. Something that is almost free. La Catarata, or waterfall, of Arenal. This photo-fabulous fall is over 150 meters of water pouring from a pinpoint off a cliff into a gorge. The hike down is tough, steep and muddy but so very worth every step. The aqua colored pools below are calling my name. Unprepared without a suit, I zipped off the bottom half of my pants and walked in to about my thighs. If this wasn’t such a tourist hole, I might have unzipped everything, put the camera on the shore and went for it anyway. We then ate a very satisfying picnic lunch out in the middle of water, resting on a boulder. Accidentally, I fed a fish when I dropped a cracker crumb into the water. Calling all of his fish-friends, I soon had a school of medium sized fish dashing and swirling about our feet.

Later, we were shuttled to Baldí Hot Springs, the main competition for Tobacón a few kilometers down the road. The man-made and spring fed pools ranged from 88° F to 116° F. We found privacy at every turn. We felt as if we the only ones there. Salsa music rattled from old speakers while bartenders at three swim-up bars mixed $10.00 concoctions. Baldí is not as natural, but possibly more fun than Tobacón.

Costa Rica - Day 2

2009-01-24T19:23:00.001-08:00

Morning always comes too early while in most places. Today the birds outside my window have awakened me before dawn. Normally this would have caused a very grumbly response, but today it brought giggles of joy. I am just outside of the rainforest, and already we are surrounded by more than twenty-five species of birds. Today is also the first day of Change… Back home our former captain Shit-head (sorry that’s his only name) has turned over his presidency to a man that can hopefully nudge this out-of-control patriarch-like system back towards democracy. History is being made as I type, in that this will be the first African-American elected president. Though, that was never even an issue here, neither a pro nor a con; we just liked his politics. Being a day for celebration, I have arranged for chilled champagne in our hotel for tonight’s arrival.

Driving from the outskirts of the San Jose area towards the Arenal volcano, I am over come with a sense of life or as the Ticos say “pura vida”. The green carpet of the land rolls on for miles. I see birds slicing the air with a touch of flirty-playfulness. Banana, coconut and papaya groves sway in the breeze. Misty mountains are shrouded with clouds and there are even a few old Jersey cows in the fields. With all this life it is hard to see what is not there. But something is missing; the trees. Miles of rainforest have been cleared and burned for raising beef. Beef being the number one export, it brings in more money than tourist that wanting to see virgin rain forests. Because of this, Alex and I have decided to boycott beef while in this amazing country. In a world of such crisis, we individuals can only hope that by making the right choices that others will follow until sustainability becomes a global movement.

Later Jorge and Tonio arrive to pick us up for a volcano hike in the afternoon. Just as we pull away from the hotel we stop to view a three-toed sloth. Within a few minutes, we paused again to view a quati- something between a lemur and a raccoon. Then while climbing a small trail behind the Arenal Volcano, we were introduced to toucans, hawks, spiders, leaf cutter ants, howler monkeys and more birds than anyone could remember all the names to, except for Jorge, our guide- he knew them all by the sounds they made. We were tested on our Costa Rican history and told many interesting trivia facts about the active volcano and surrounding land. Knowing that our hotel sits in area one- or the most dangerous part of the mountainous valley- stirs up a little uneasiness.

Our day has the perfect ending, relaxing at the world famous Tabacón Hot Springs. I thought I had found paradise earlier in the jungle so this had to be off the charts. A hot river pouring over young volcanic rock beds embraced us. Waterfalls demanded attention and respect while conjuring romance. A shallow cave behind a large waterfall stirs up the passion while the water pounded just beyond shoulders. Tobacón offers a vacation from the vacation. With is swim up bars, waterslide, acres of private river flowing nearly at 42° C and top notch food, why would anyone return back to their tour bus with sketchy AC, the loud laughing woman and the extra large guy sitting next to them eating a Big Mac?

Costa Rica - Day 1

2009-01-24T19:21:00.000-08:00

This day has been eagerly thought about for about six months or more. At first, it was just a few friends having a drink at a local wine bar, and then it was real. This small, half hatched idea was brewed somewhere between a latte and some bubbly sake. The next morning, this idea was more than just a dream of two girls yakking, it was going to be the best trip of our lives-at least up until the next one comes. Something about it stuck and embraced our needs with something seductive.

So here it is, a well-rounded vacation to Costa Rica right here in front of us… All we have to is wait for that alarm to go off at 5:30 so we can all cram into a San Francisco taxi, dash though our very effective-government demanded, security check points and then sit for a few hours in the airport. At 2:30, three hours before all this actually happens, my brain plays out each part like the Lord of the Rings; could end a million different ways but just kept going on and on using up valuable sleeping time.

In the air, I only saw rocks out the window. I don’t know what I should have been seeing instead, but it was all desert and rocks. Plain and boring, old rocks. So, I looked around the cramped cabin to see if our stewardess, oh-sorry, flight attendant, could liven things up a bit. Her answer was more unpleasing then the rocks. Stating clearly that all adult beverages would be $7.00 USD, and exact change was preferred. So maybe that sleep I missed out on last night would be useful now, now if I could only ban babies from flying commercial flights…

After we landed, and breezed through the airport, we were whisked away to a treasure. Really a diamond in the rough, our hotel had so much character. And the owner’s took us in as if we were their children. Papa made us fresh pizzas that rivaled some that I have had in Italy, and brought cold beers. Mamma dealt a heavy warning for the Jaco and San José areas.

Karbai to Bangkok, Bangkok to Taipei, Taipei to San Francisco, San Francisco to Sebastopol

2008-06-24T14:33:00.000-07:00

Dawn broke earlier than expected but it was a welcomed sight. With our backpacks full of sand and memories, we headed towards the front desk to check out. Our bags were stored away, unsure if people were going through them and collecting our camera, laptop and other valuables. The breakfast room was not yet open, so we took our last walk on the beach. We were flanked on either side of the island by steep mountains, so our walk was brief, but intimate. The beach sand was pink from the sunrise light coming from the other side of the island, and uniquely groomed from small sand crabs. These tiny little creatures managed to comb the entire beach and filter the algae from the sand. Life always has its janitors, be grateful for them as a karmatic notion. The smells of breakfast were enticing, so we headed back to our temporary home.

Walking hand in hand with no shoes on, totally in love, happy to be finally married, nothing could stop us from enjoying our last dawn as honeymooners. Until we tripped over and old oil bottle, still wet and oily from the sea, stopping us dead in our tracks to question the human race. I find it very unsettling that nothing is sacred while everything is coveted. It won’t be long before discarded coke cans, beer bottles and oil containers are a very real part of even the sexiest honeymoon island ads. Usually it’s the one the one that ruin it for the many, but sadly enough, this time I think it is the many ruining it for the few.

After breakfast, we were greeted without English to be escorted to our boat. This is the last time we got to wade out to our waist in tropical water, so we took it in and enjoyed it one last time. This was the beginning of our journey home and the end of one more adventure. We were excited and sad at the same time. This boat ride meant no more sandy margaritas at sunset and wearing real clothing, not just our swim suits. It also meant having our dog lick our faces in forgiveness of abandoning her for the past three weeks. This boat ride was the beginning to real married life and the end of a one of kind honeymoon. But it was time, time to give up luxury and be humble again. And we were ready, even though we both could do without the thirty hours of traveling between here and our bed.

Our private boat ride lasted for about an hour or so. We finally docked in a small fishing town but I couldn’t see the airport. Maybe we had to grab another fairy… The man of no English form the boat grabbed our bags like a donkey and pointed. One would think after being submerged in a country were everyone smiles and points to communicate, we would have picked up the language better, but I think we could have had another lesson.
A dark car, without any government markings, distinguishing marks or even a business name appeared about a block from the dock. Our bags were put in the trunk followed by a loud slam. The boat driver and the car driver exchanged what appeared to be a lot of money and a few Thai words. Then bigger smiles, followed by more pointing toward the back seat of the car. We were hesitant, and I was scared. I thought this would be the last time I saw Alex. I thought I was being sold into the sex trade- the underbelly of Thailand. Our luggage was to be sold, like us, and used for profit. I can forget about the thirty hours of travel, this is the beginning of the next thirty years of my life… The good and bad moments of my life started to play like a movie. I saw traffic lights that merged seamlessly in to beautiful memories of our wedding. Street signs that I would try to remember incase I escaped; became childhood arguments I had with my baby brother. The next sign, said Karbi Airport- 3 kilometers. The biggest sigh of relief came flooding out as I squeezed Alex’s hand to let him know I love him. We were going home after all!
So the countdown started with an hour wait after checking into the Karbi Airport. Our flight back to Bangkok took at least another hour. Once in Bangkok, we had about 6 hours to waste. We had caught the only flight from Karbi to Bangkok in the early morning, and our flight to Taipei wasn’t until the evening.

As I sit here on the marble floor, illegally charging my laptop via an outlet in the floor meant for the cleaning crew, I feel lonely and about as clear-headed as the five coats of varnish on the floor. I am ready to have that “ahhhh” moment of being in my own home, in my own bed eating my own food. I miss my dog, my couch and the steadiness of my routine.

Thank you Thailand, for opening you hearts and opening our minds. We are forever grateful for the experiences and lessons learned. This was yet another step in the direction of adulthood; but with every step forward in life, we also take one backward as an inward journey. We will embrace the teachings of Buddha, learn to smile instead of shout and know what to have nothing really means. Sawadee Ka…

Day 17 “Time in a Coconut”

2007-11-18T04:44:00.000-08:00

Today seemed as if were the most perfect day yet, sunny but not crazy hot, no rain, no beach sales men, just my husband and I enjoying life together. The sand-white and hot, the water-warm and shallow and the cocktails were cold and wet. We saw the real Thailand, naked in it’s natural beauty. Thai massages in the beach front spa opened the day and were followed by trips between the ocean and the pool and then back again. Thanks to the advice of my new sister-in-law and mother-in-law, we saw Thailand with open eyes. We giggled at everything but not enough to make people look. We existed in own little world as if we were the only ones there, and enjoyed the space. As evening neared, boats on the water made black silhouettes on the red-orange water colored sky.

Needing nourishment, and some non-swimming time, we went the only place we could. Our resort, where they had a large spread of food I wasn’t tired of eating. The thing that looked the best were the fresh kabobs made with large chunks of meat, onions, peppers, and a cob of corn; grilled over an open fire served with unlimited salad bar. We pointed out our kabobs, then pointed out our table and the waiter seemed to understand. The table we had chosen was right on the waters edge. It seemed that it had been a popular table and just turned because it lacked silverware. We didn’t care, someone would bring us some soon. None came and we overcome by hunger, so we picked with our fingers and joked about it. Sappy music played somewhere in the background, but it added to the high we were feeling off each other. I heard a few familiar notes and almost started to cry. After pointing out that it was Time in a Bottle: the first song we danced to at our wedding, we jumped into the sand and began to dance again. People around us watched with curiosity, but we didn’t care. If we could dance in front of our family perfectly, we surely could half ass it in front of strangers we would never see again. The magic was accented by a lightening storm in the distant sea. I don’t know it was the thunder or the magic between us, but the ground shook. The moment ended and left us crying tears of happiness. Back to our table, still with no silverware, we finished up the last of our salad. A guy that spoke no English delivered hot kabobs that smelled slightly of campfire. So asking about the silverware was out of the question. We just kept going, using our hands to eat our much deserved dinner; I mean that’s how to eat bbq right?

Thanks Catia!

Day 16 Thank God for Gelato

2007-11-18T04:35:00.000-08:00

In our wandering around last night to find something to eat besides noodles and curry, we discovered a hidden trail up the back side of Phi Phi Don. The trail was labeled only as Island Lookout Point. We started up the steep steps and then doubled back because we lacked a flashlight and food in our bellies. So of course, it was fresh on Alex’s mind all through breakfast. He wasn’t going to pass up an opportunity to go billy-goating on a beautiful island. I had my reserves, mostly because I was lazy and wanted another cocktail. But I made a deal, how about I go up part way, watch our day packs and you can take the camera all the way to the top. He wrinkled his face, but agreed saying he had the right to tease me about it all day. He disappeared up the sandy steps with a bounce, while I found entertainment in a new but used Stephen King novel.

The day was similar to yesterday, the heat just stuck to everything. Even sitting in the shade, doing nothing but reading a book, I must have lost almost a liter of sweat. I felt bad for Alex at the top of the ridge with not even a nalgene of water, but again, he asked for it. He reappeared just as I was starting to bite my lip from my book, looking like he had gone for a swim. Sweat just poured from every place possible as he asked for some water. He demanded beer and ice-cream too, but unfortunately, I forgot to pack those in the back pack.

We headed downhill, on mission, to cool Alex down enough not to get heat stroke. A lady dozing through the heat, advertised a cooler full of ice-cream at the front of her home. I thought Alex was going to dive in, but he was much more civil. Selecting the biggest one he could, and quickly grabbing for a few baht, I knew he would be okay. Later, lunch came early just to get out the heat. He still had beer on the brain, so he ordered the first one he recognized. I questioned the previous ice-cream floating in beer and he said it was okay.

Our ferry didn’t come for a few more hours, and it was close to 100 at nearly 100% humidity. I didn’t care what we did, as long as we could get out of the heat. Going back to the room with air conditioning was out because check out had come and gone. The beach was more less out because our suits were inside our bags, waiting to be shuttled to the ferry. So like any other traveler, we shopped in stores with air. Living in this overly hot climate, one would think that the locals would be more welcoming to idea of air, but sadly most couldn’t afford it. Over the past few days, we had frequented a coffee shop that sold Illy espresso. They had air, as well as my favorite coffee, so seemed like a great place to burn up the rest of the time at Phi Phi Don Island. There in the window, was a gelato freezer, full with swirl topped gelato and sugar cones pointing to the sky. Finally we had found an oasis of culture we could understand. Traveling to Europe last year, left us well versed in the ideas of café and gelato. The crème carmel and the blueberry yogurt were the best flavors we tried, but would have loved to try everything if I had a longer afternoon.

Day 15 …two lost souls living in a fish bowl

2007-11-18T04:32:00.000-08:00

The heat of morning crept into the hotel before dawn broke. But we had a plan to retrieve our day of giggles we were promised. Upon arrival of the island, we saw the place was crawling with tourist directors and travel shops that could arrange anything. After breakfast, we chose the closest scalper to our hotel and booked a full day of snorkeling and fun. The day was already hot, and not wanting to over do it in the sun again, we went back to our room for a nap under the A.C.

The alarm rang too quickly but it made us happy. At the beach, a local pointed to a bucket of fins for us to find our size. Equipped with fins, goggles and a small waterproof day pack, we waded through the sea to get to the waiting boat. The boat then stopped shortly after it came to full speed. I had my doubts about it being a great snorkeling place as we hadn’t even gone past the harbor. The driver grabbed a few bananas while the boat slid ashore. And that’s when I got it. We were going to see the other natives of the Phi Phi Islands, monkeys. They were small, but they weighed a lot more than they should have. Tourists handed over ripe bananas and chunks of watermelon with glee on their faces. As did I, but with an underlying fear of getting rabies in a third world country with little medical assistance anywhere close. The boat began pulling back, and we said our goodbyes to the mild mannered primates.

We shortly came to our first dive spot. Bread went flying off the side of the boat to assure that we saw fish. We planted our butts right on the edge of the boat, pulled on our fins, adjusted our mask and then, SPLASH! The water was already 80 degrees, but it was a lot cooler than the air. Ready to view the world bellow, the salt water was blown from my snorkel tube as I secured it in my mouth. Breathe in, breathe out, nothing to this snorkeling stuff anyway…right? Eager and full of excitement, I lowered my face into the blue plains that surrounded us. Choke, cough, sputter, and then everything went black for a second. I could hear champagne bubbles in my ears, and had no orientation as to where the air might be. Fear turned into panic, which turned into more choking. Pulling my mask off, and swimming as hard as I could for the few inches I was actually under, I found air and a sense of calmness. Determined not to have another panic attack, I shook out my mask, again blew the salt water and practiced breathing above the water through the snorkel. Getting a hold of my self, I slowly lowered my head again.

Coral of all colors and reef fish greeted me with enthusiasm. Giant sea clams, held tight in a clamped position as angelfish suckled on their algae. Spiny black urchins reached for the sun and neon anemones danced as if they were in a trance. Black fish, red fish, and rainbow fish that could bite rocks swam around me faster and easier than I could swim around them, so I let them. I could feel small reef fish nibbling at the air bubbles trapped on my body, and I laughed because I knew I would nibble on one of them a little later. This pattern was repeated for five hours, until the hot sun decided that had put in a days worth of work. And with the changing of the solar guards, the engine was killed on the boat, so we could enjoy one of the most beautiful sunsets in the world.

Day 14, Phuket to P P Islasnds

2007-11-18T04:29:00.000-08:00

Another early day, but we were determined not to over sleep again. We couldn’t, the ferryboat just would not wait. So we said good bye to Phuket, as we packed into a van of other tourist on the same ten step program. Being that we were just packed on top of each other, I was nervous about our luggage. A man of little English threw it up on the top of the van with little care, and then tied them down with a half assed attitude.

At the dock, we were color coded and tagged like cattle again. A director shouted “you go first line, first boat, you go other boat, you go there.” It was confusing, but we just followed the other cows with same stickers on their shirts. In the ferry it was more of the same. Over the loud speakers, a booming yet crackling voice demanded out instructions of what to do and where to go. No one could understand, so we all just stuck to our seats. Our itinerary said that we would be going snorkeling, so we were eager to get this part over with. More instructions rattled from the poor speakers with the same reaction: cattle in the headlights. When it seemed like hours had passed, we were instructed to get off the boat and transfer. We didn’t want to transfer, we had arrived at our destination, and were not ready to go on to the next part of our travels. After making a stink about what our itinerary said, finally someone got it and allowed us to stay. We were then directed to go meet our guide to the hotel. But what about the snorkeling? Had we missed something? I hoped not because I was in need of lunch, lunch that was to be provided on the day trip. No snorkeling, no lunch, just grab your bags and follow me please. Only 12:00, we couldn’t check in to our hotel for a few more hours. That’s when my low blood sugar combined with paying for a day that we didn’t get and all the confusion, made me foam at the mouth. We found lunch seaside, as well as too much sun and not enough water. I was glad to finally get into my room and wash off the sand and the frustration.

Day 13, Is your coconut chilled enough?

2007-11-18T04:25:00.000-08:00

The leather back turtles that enchanted us before our journey will have to wait for another time. Making a conscious, executive decision about the impact tourism has had on all the wild life; we agreed that the turtles would be happier without us. Since the tsunami, tourism is booming, and with that goes everything selfish that humans do. The leather backs are changing their nesting grounds to more hazardous areas to avoid contact with continuing pop of a flash bulb, eating cigarette butts or taunting children. For each hotel, each restaurant, each person, the turtles suffer and the numbers drop.

This is not the first thing we have chosen not support in our way of being conscious people. Shark and stingray leather is sold on the street as if it were some piece of plastic, negotiating its worth between a few dollars. Maybe I am just a So Co person trained to view the world with open eyes, but these precious animals had a life. They are not food left to flap away on ice waiting to die or a posh wallet or belt with a fancy label. A life where the only purpose was to live long and breed with many, is now destroyed for the sake of tourism. Now as a result, our children’s children, will only know these creatures by the items we leave behind in our closets.

Forgoing the turtles, we went to Patong Beach. The heat was heavy and just as thick. Locals trying to make some money would approach my bed- that I was charged 100 baht to lie in- and try to sell anything. Most of it was the typical tourist garb, some food and sometimes a water sport adventure. This added to the sidewalk sales abrasively asking us to “take look, I make good price”, followed by the taxi drivers that only say one thing; “tuk tuk”. Between the “sarong, excuse me, sarong”, “you jet ski, only 1000 baht”, “excuse me, spring roll”, “Madame, you like try” it became less of a beach day and more of a lie there and watch the flea market day. All this denying the advertising called for a beverage, as my moth felt like sand. I sent for chilled coconuts with the tops whacked by machetes. Pull up the top, insert a straw that probably would go un-recycled, recline the bed and watch the sun say good night.

No internet and no coffee make me somethin something

2007-11-18T04:22:00.000-08:00

We haven't forget about the posts, but it's hard to get internet on an island. About all we have is sand...

Day 12 RAIN, and lots of it

2007-11-13T06:31:00.000-08:00

I turned to Alex with sleepy eyes and asked “what’s that noise?” hearing loud bangs and crashes, accompanied by what sounded like an old engine trying to start. Being the kind soul that he is, and wanting me to get as much sleep as I could, he left the bed to investigate. He answered back “RAIN, on a tin roof” while looking out the window. So with a free day ahead of us, we relaxed and waited for the rain to stop. In the hour or less that it took us to eat breakfast, over an inch of rain poured down. We returned to our room to catch up on our abandoned blog and some phone calls. Reading local news via the internet, we discovered this monsoon that come from China, was grounding local flights and causing localized flooding. Lunch time came, and tried to go, but the rain kept falling. The rain wouldn’t let up, and then it turned of. As if the “Happy Lady” downstairs figured she had enough, and went to the switch that was labeled –RAIN –on-off, and pushed it just like a TV button.

After finishing my post, we packed for the beach. There were a few puddles, but mostly the area was dry already, and the beach was full. Finally, I had a beach bed and a freshly cracked coconut.

Day 11 Pang Nga Bay turns into a “chili” night

2007-11-13T06:28:00.000-08:00

A medium sized sea ferry sat waiting for us in the harbor as we over slept. The hotel phone rang out in the dark. When I finally figured out that it was real and not a dream, the “Happy Lady” that pointed us around Phuket yesterday, said something I didn’t understand. It sounded like “pick up 10:00” followed by something in Thai. Finding our watch, it was only 8:15 so maybe someone had arranged a wake-up call. But something didn’t sit right, so I sent Alex downstairs to figure it out. He burst back in the door just as fast as he had left saying “we’ve gotta GO”. Clothes, towels and beach gear whirled as we went running to meet a mini van full of other groggy tourists.

The ride out to sea was beautiful and ugly at the same time. Heavy rain clouds and thick fog hung out in the bay. In a way, it reminded me of home, but a lot hotter. Towering islands and rocks that appeared to be floating haunted the horizon. We arrived at the James Bond Island, were The Man with the Golden Gun was filmed, and again felt like cattle. Tourists were everywhere, some of them the disrespecting type, but most of them where shelling out money for souvies made in china. The island was just packed as full as it could be and there were more people coming ashore. Sea-taxis lined up with the edges of their boats touching. One would come in and sandwiching the taxi using the dock. Then tourist climbed over themselves, and the now empty taxi just to get ashore. I wish I could have appreciated the island more, but in truth, it really couldn’t be seen. Back onto our boat, where there was a sense of calmness. The crowds disappeared as the captain drove away.

Sea canoes hit the water with a slap, and natives jumped in the warm water just behind the canoes. We then were encouraged to go two by two into the awaiting canoes. I was impressed about the free style of the activity, as were not even required to wear life jackets. Our guide paddled us around showing us rock figures and sea caves. The caves had absolute darkness, but our guide knew where to go. In some areas, we laid back in the canoe to avoid a skull to rock collision. Beyond the caves, virgin salt-water lagoons rested.

Back to the main boat for a quick lunch of fresh fish and seafood. The wonderful ladies that spoke no English, cooking our meals, seemed to understand my shrimp allergy. They made me special dishes that were vegetarian instead. I wanted to tell them just how happy they had made me, but I didn’t know how. After lunch, there were more caves to be explored. And when the natives got tired of paddling us around, they took us ashore on uninhabited beach. The water was so warm and so clear it was like a dream. For a while, I wondered if I actually answered the phone for this day to begin. We made water angels in the breaking surf as the boat crew set up a game of soccer.

Later for dinner, Alex had an unforgettable experience. He chomped down on the second hottest chili in the world, mistaking it for a green been. His face became red and sweaty as he reached for something, anything to cool the pain. His ears began to ring and pop, and sweat dripped. I felt so bad knowing that pain myself and knowing that I couldn’t really do much. After finishing all the water we had on the table and his plain rice, the burn slowed. The normal antidotes for chili burn are not always easy to get. Milk and juice I have only seen at breakfast, sugar is not always on the table and bread is a special order. But he survived, if only to learn a lesson about being more careful while eating, and to not always trust what is on the plate.

Photos:

Day 10 Rain into the Sea

2007-11-10T21:52:00.000-08:00

After making us breakfast, the woman at the front desk, escorted us on a tour around the main island. Speaking little English, her generous laughter and pointing finger got the job done. At the Gibbon reserve, we discovered rehabilitated souls waiting to go back into the jungle. The rain is hot and sticky, making it uncomfortable to be outside. But the call of the trail summoned us with great power. No rain was going to stop us, even if it boiled. There was a waterfall whispering to us that we had never met. Light filled our eyes as we trekked over the mud and under branches, until we found what we were looking for.

Later the evening we appeared in a general honeymoon ad, as we walked barefoot along the shore at sunset. Carrying our shoes, in the hands that weren’t holding each other, we finally had enough space to feel totally comfortable. The bustling town of Patong, was overcame by a still quietness, broken only by small waves crashing on the beach. This mornings rain clouds made long shadows across the evening sky, and the sea become one with the heavens.

Photos:

Day 9 Phuket (POO KET)

2007-11-10T21:49:00.000-08:00

The water of the second story pool sparkled like a bed of sapphires. It was warmer than I expected but that only made it easier to go for an early morning swim. Stone elephants showered water from the edge, giving the illusion of rain. I could hear children playing in the larger pool downstairs, and was grateful that I didn’t have to share. Our flight to Phuket was in about two hours, but right now I could care less about time ticking away. As we boarded the plane, I thought of our friends The Hug and how I would probably never see them again.

Colored lights and strange circus like faces moved about as people in traditional Thai costumes collected our money. Black lights made the eyes and teeth glow on the unsuspecting tourist crowds. Cartoon characters accented the night as we were lead into the “World’s Grandest Buffet” area. This overly decorated hall could hold all of the people in my home town, probably with room to spare. Two hours until curtain time, and refusing to give in to the over priced carnival items, we walked around the grounds; in shock about how weird this new world was. The giant gong rang in front of the Elephant Palace, and we were lined up like cattle going to the slaughterhouse. Once inside, the gates to our seats wouldn’t open until the surrounding vendors had pulled more money out of naive pockets. The giant doors opened into a blackened theatrical stadium. The cast rode in on elephants, followed by a parade of towering lanterns, lotus flowers, swords and candles. Dancers in extravagant costumes made their way onto stage, as lasers bounced from wall to wall. Somehow, the cast of Cirque du Soleil had been briefed on Thai customs. Trapeze wires hung from the ceilings, and stages rose and fell right before our eyes, and harnessed dancers flew about. Explosions and smoke bombs accented certain points as a love story about the king unfolded. Chickens, goats, elephants, water buffalo and pigeons all knew their part and where to go, as rain poured from the ceiling. Flower petals and balloons showered the audience of over 1000 people as the lights came back on. And again we were lined up for vendors to continue ringing us out before we were allowed to leave.

Photos:

Day eight, Back to The Hug

2007-11-09T21:05:00.000-08:00

Ae and Pu-yan were happy to see us return and welcomed us onto back into their home. We were encouraged to finish watching Happy Feet with Pu-yan as Ae went to tell his wife that we were back. It was wonderful to watch a family go through their nightly routine as they invited foreign guests into their home. Similar to last time, were asked what we would like for dinner and to drink. So like anyone trying to fit in, we asked him what he wanted us to eat, after all, we were in his house. He recommended chicken curry over noodles and fried chicken with ingredients, and then a honey-pineapple smoothie to cut the spice. Then he allowed us the honor to enter his wife’s kitchen to learn the traditional ropes of their cuisine.

The kitchen was hot, a lot hotter than the luxury ones I had worked in at home. Sweat ran down my back, and then down my legs as I tried to find a place to stand where I would not be in the way. It was a tight fit to have all the equipment, the three of us plus the occasional staff member, and to actually turn out a product. But it was worth the heat in the cramped corner. The woman, known only as the wife, lit a large gas burner with a lighter with more confidence than I would have had. A blackened, well-seasoned wok then rested atop of the flame. Coconut oil, star anise and a strange pod entered the picture, and just before it reached its flash point, chicken that had been chopped previously went sizzling into the worlds hottest pan. Followed by large slices of ginger, a spoonful of chicken powder, a small spoon of sugar and two soy sauces. A few drops of water hit the pan with a loud noise and steam billowed into an already too hot kitchen. Extra firm tofu was tossed in to help stretch the dish out. Spoons were handed our way to check for seasoning. On approval, the contents of the pan were poured onto a clean plate, and garnished with spring onions and black pepper.

A new wok was already on the fire with oil starting to smoke. Just as before, chicken screamed out its last fight, as the coconut oil over came the small pieces. After confirming that we are in the “medium heat” bracket, a huge pile of red curry paste was scooped on the chicken. The paste was caramelized instantly. The toasting of this curry paste coated the humid air with a spicy oil and brought out smells I have never experienced. Some sugar, two soy sauces, black pepper, chicken powder and yellow curry powder marched into the pan as if they all knew their number. Water from a small tabletop pitcher coated all the ingredients, and again we were given spoons. The dish was hot and the curry was hotter, but it tasted like I had just licked the Night Bazaar from one end to the other. The flavors were powerful and the ingredients were simple. Fresh whole grain ramen noodles appeared, and went for a four minute swim in the bubbling curry. With the wok tipped sideways, this tantalizing mixture of chili, noodles and protein, went sliding into a large bowl, suitable for use on the table. Two mountains of jasmine rice, the traditional fork and spoon set, and the dishes made before us made their way to the table where our smoothies were waiting.

Somewhere between the fresh ingredients, the experience of the hot kitchen and the company of our new friends, we had the best dinner in all of Thailand. Ae started to set up his sound equipment so he could show off his talent. He covered some American songs including Stairway to Heaven, which he didn’t know the words to, among others. Like most musicians, on a live stage, he introduced his songs with stories of how they came to be. His English was broken but understandable. Then he said something ironic, considering where we were a few hours ago, but unforgettably chilling.

“This song for brother, he is one year more…” He then paused to think about the words and the situation. “I use condom… he did not. So one man more to HIV, lost this year. This is for brother, when it should have been me.”

Day eight, Are We There Yet?

2007-11-09T07:48:00.000-08:00

7:00 am
Morning came too soon as we climbed into our personal chariot with a driver and a dry tour guide. With no coffee and unsettled breakfast of fried foods, we tried to prepare for the long journey. We were headed to the Golden Triangle. The place were opium, amongst other drugs, fueled the economy from the mafia and gangsters. Long boats would meet in no man’s land between Laos, Burma and Thailand and gold bars would be exchanged. The area was perfect for growing poppies for the opium trade, with a steady climate and rolling hills. Poppies were grown under maze that reached 2 meters into the sky to help disguise the crops. This was a day to be full adventure.
9:00 am
The morning commute is enough to irritate anyone. Combine that with no coffee, poor breakfast, and totally trusting your self to being driven around by two people you’ve never met is sure to leave one slightly on edge if not completely annoyed. We pulled into a hot spring packed with tourists sporting every style of camera. Sellers came out of nowhere selling silver and “wanna be” gems. Ladies with small baskets of eggs pushed their way into the foreigner’s faces saying 100 baht, 100 baht 100 baht- five minute. The idea was to buy her eggs, lower them into the hot spring and pull them up in five minutes for a soft boiled batch of eggs. Foreigners were lining up at this opportunity, but we could see it for what it really was. These people were squatting gypsies trying to get you to willingly spend your money, so they didn’t have to reach into your pockets and get it.
9:30 am
CAFÉ! We finally found coffee. This seamed to make the world right side up again
10:30 am
The coffee had run it’s course, but the driver was not done driving…I sat cross legged for a while, then I pulled my feet up into the car seat for reassurance. In the morning the driver had said about three hours travel time, so I kept my mouth shut. The road kept going on, and road signs that I couldn’t read much of, said something 95 km. The van tipped side to side as we slowly made our way down the windy mountain road. This rocking motion seemed to exaggerate the sensation I was experiencing. But felling powerless, I kept my mouth shut and my legs crossed.
12:00 pm
Our guide finally turned around and started to give some information, and history about the mission we were on. He talked of temples, opium and the Thai mafia. All I heard was my bladder screaming. The driver pulled into a parking lot next to some ancient ruins. As soon he opened the door, I ran for the first sign that said TOILET. A row of unisex squaty-podies lay in front of me. The first one was home to a mangy, wild dog. He looked hungry and like he had been in too many fights, fights that he might have started. I decided not to invade his space and ran for the next one.
12:15 pm
We had finally arrived at the ticket booth, for the boat ride around the Golden Triangle. Finally our grand adventure had arrived! We rode on a motorized long boat through the area where two rivers and three countries came together. There was a very small, broken patch of island in the center with weeds over a meter high. If the river had a tide, this spec of mud would be washed away forever. About half way around this mud patch, we found out that this, this was the Golden Triangle. I can see mud in the middle of the river fifteen miles from my house, why did I need to travel half way around the world, take a five hour car trip and climb in a old boat to see sand covered with weeds?
1:00 pm
The Burma border. This looked like any other market on any other street. There was a bridge that crossed a small river into Burma-that we not allowed to cross. Maybe I missed the point in the lesson about the Burma border, but I just didn’t get why we were here. It only made our drive home 45 minutes longer.
5:00 pm
We stopped at a roadside mini-market/hotel/restaurant for a few minutes to use the TOILET, and walk for a little bit. Both of us were shocked to learn the place was called Cabbage and Condoms, with a sign sporting rainbow colored animated condoms. I heard a trembling voice ask “where have they taken us?” as I laughed inside for my own uncomfortable reasons. Despite what it appeared to be, it was similar to a Face to Face program back home in the states; providing information about family planning and AIDS to a third world country that could benefit from both.
6:30 pm
Finally the hotel was in sight. I had never been so relieved to see a place that wasn’t really my home. The day required a shower, a change of atmosphere and some dinner. So we went back to The Hug, as promised.

Photos:

Day seven, If we could run out of green pixels…

2007-11-09T07:42:00.000-08:00

Deep into the jungle we drove, over dirt roads and under vegetation that competed against itself for soil and nutrients. The shapes and the greenery gave me a key into my imagination while driving on. I thought of the “creepers” that hung in every angle off the plane and the past pilot. Ralph and the other boys chanting “kill the pig” while dancing around the fire with animals on pikes followed. “Kill the Pig, Kill the pig!...” Mr. Thomas, my sophomore English teacher would be proud to know that making me read The Lord Of The Flies would actually have an impact on my life.

We arrived at the Elephant Camp and feared it would be yet another Disneyland type of attraction. To our surprise, there were no loud speakers, no cheesy audio tapes and nothing for sale looked that like it had arrived in a box labeled To: tourist or current sucker! All the people here were of the same tribe and functioned together, as a village, as they have done for decades. The men had their jobs, and the women had theirs. After bathing the elephants, watching the elephants teach us how they worked and a few parlor tricks; we were invited to experience them first hand. I fed a mother and new baby a bunch of bananas, and a bundle of sugar cane, that disappeared behind giant molars faster than I could blink. Now it was time for something I had been waiting to do for eight months. We get to ride the elephants, through the jungle up to the Hilltribe Village. On the way up the unmanicured trail we saw dueling dragonflies bigger than our hands. Somewhere between the parking lot and the village, we had stumbled into a Jurrassic time. The spiders were bigger than saucers, in webs that stretched to either side of the creek the elephants were using as a trail. The vegetation was dense and overgrown. And the creek swelled with the recent rain. But at this moment, ten feet high on the back of an elephant, I wasn’t afraid of the jungle. I let it console us in a green embrace.

The villagers were so eager to make a few baht for much needed supplies, and we were eager to help. A man sold us a hand carved elephant chime for only 100 bath (less than three US dollars). I almost wanted to buy two, and take only one, because his teeth appeared as to of not ever seen a dentist. After the elephant caravan, we stopped at the base of the mountain for an amazing lunch. No time to soak up what had just occurred, because there was a bamboo raft waiting for us at the shore of the Mae Ping River. Seated on a simple raft made with bamboo stocks and tied with grass; we took in all the beauty the jungle had to offer.

Photos:

Day six, the Hug

2007-11-09T02:42:00.000-08:00

The day started off like any other so far, standard breakfast and off to see more temples. The architecture is similar but the story changes with each one. Large murals depict the life and teachings of Buddha, as well as the kings and common folklore. Separation of church and state is almost unheard of, as most men are expected to learn most things from the monkhood. Which could be a double bladed sword while being a blessing on most levels.

After a morning of education we were on our own, free to find mischief. Finding only lunch at a place called Whole Earth instead, we were not disappointed.
The chicken coconut soup was powerfully strong with lemongrass, kefir and chilies. Peanut sauce coated a traditional green papaya salad, and chicken lay in a heaping pile of veggies with garlic and lemongrass.

Dinner was similar food and just as good, but by far the best experience we have had. The name of the restaurant was very mod, as if someone was stuck in their avocado kitchen thinking about the good times of the 70’s: The Hug. Functioning as a home and as place of business, as well as the occasional music stage, the place was busy but not with many people. A man presented himself as the owner, and waiter, then tried to filter through our English for something he understood. His daughter soon came into the picture, maybe five or six years of age, and was introduced in broken English. With our order in hand, off the man went to the kitchen. While the kid remained at the curbside table we had taken temporary residence at. She played basic games that required no English even though she spoke quite well. Music that had a familiar edge but somehow I had never heard before came from old speakers with testy wires. Some of the words were English, most in Thai, but it was beautiful. I had to own it. So the man who called himself Ae, ran to fetch an autographed copy. The food was wonderful and the atmosphere made us wiggle that we had found such a nice family to relate to half way around the world. I was sad for the dinner to end, and too full to order more to keep the moment going. We said our good byes with a promise to return before leaving Chaing Mai.

Photos:

Day five, Bangkok to Chaing Mai

2007-11-04T06:44:00.000-08:00

Colored glass, mirrors and gold leaf sparkled high into the sky, and jasmine, incense and candle wax scented the air as we were told the stories of the ancient kings. Tales with carvings of demons and monkeys in the forest transporting temples on their backs connected everything with a common flare. Kingdoms rose and fell under the supervision of Buddhism. And history was painted on the walls in over 400 frame-less murals for all to see, know and to understand. This was the tale of the Royal Palace and all its inhabitants. The temple containing the coveted Emerald Buddha was filled with riches and treasures beyond wonder. With all this in the physical life, how does one seek the enlightenment of nothingness on the way to nirvana?

Our last hours in Bangkok were full of exhaust and frustration as a graduation ceremony crowded the streets. After endless traffic another gem store was presented, that was never on the itinerary, so our guide could take a stab a some well needed commission. We made it to the airport feeling slightly used and irritated with our tardiness so near to our flight to Chaing Mai. Because of our guide's attempt to make a few baht, we had to deal with much unnecessary traffic and empty bellies. It seemed like the first boarding call was made just after we finished checking our bags. The chaos continued once we arrived with a room preserved in cigarette smoke. After changing rooms, we gave up after the air conditioner and three walls of electric circuit was blown. We needed food, and to get out the tourist spot light for a while. On the way to the night Bazaar, we found a cafe that reminded us of Denny's back home. The whole day was saved when lattes done perfectly were delivered to the table followed by big burgers and greasy fries. Finally, a sense of homestyle comfort.

Photos:

"Free to explore Bangkok at own liesure"

2007-11-04T06:42:00.000-08:00

In a world were everyone refers to you as “excuse me ma’am” it’s often difficult not to just to keep walking until you have a name. So that’s what we did, right into the spa. Lemongrass, orange peel, rose and herbs lingered in the air as our shoes were replaced with slippers. Tropical plants and candles seemed to pop out from the Zen poster that was our private room. I felt like kid on Christmas day about to receive something I had been begging for. On the surface, there was no way to tell that we were half way up in a major high rise in the middle of a Land of Smiles. Our feet were scrubbed from antique bowls and our robes were removed as we went into the steam room. With our bodies warmed through, we reentered into the world of royalty. Firm hands made their way from toe to crown, with attention to every muscle. The excess oil was washed away, and the angels with the dancing hands quietly vanished into their quarters. Two hours had passed since I had last looked at the time, but I didn’t care. Here I was dropped in a state of euphoria with the love of my life only thinking about how nice it was to finally relax.

Yesterday, Yo, our guide, had recommended to go downtown and visit the major shopping center. So we made our way to the sky train, but not before trying the roasted plantains I was still thinking about. Then the foul smelling durian fruit that had come with high recommendation and equal warning. In a land so foreign, everything in the mall seemed so familiar. With T-shirts of every color and style, cheap knock offs of fine European products and electronics farther than the eyes could see; it all became a blur. As this is our only day to experience Bangkok as a city, the tuk tuks, neon taxis and the Thai Baht cycloned around us with an unreal force. We found Jim Thompson's House of Silks just in time for the last English tour; and a gentle soul to drive us "home" during rush hour traffic for less money than it was worth. Of course our hotel was not the only stop, first were had to stop at a gem factory and then a silk shop so the driver could make an attempt at his commission from the locals. No time to rest, back off to the pool as the humid sun laid it self to rest on the western horizon. Wet just long enough to say we visited the pool in our hotel at least once, it was time to go again. The Night Bazaar was calling out our names and to our money, and into the fuchsia taxi we went.

Photos:

Bangkok Day 3 Photos

2007-11-01T19:11:00.000-07:00

Click:

Bangkok-Day 3

2007-11-01T03:00:00.000-07:00

The day started with struggling to resist the green glow of a near by coffee chain. Awake before they were open, (imagine that) we walked around our block watching vendors set up their carts. The food from these small and self sufficient entrepreneurs is a thing of curiosity. The smells are foreign, and the ingredients are unpronounceable. But still I just want to grab a freshly grilled plantain or a fried piece of fish while the coconut oil drains from the crispy batter for a pre-dawn breakfast. With little knowledge of this enticing street food, and a mild fear of Montazuma's revenge, we trace our steps to the hotel. The French fare seems out of place, but at least it is familiar. Yesterday, the coffee was weak and sour-hence the discussion in the early hours to support something we both feel so strongly against. Faced with instant Nescafe in our room twenty-five floors up or the guys on the corner, we gave in to the iced grande such and such and then felt too guilty to talk about the rest of the day.

The sun appeared for most of the day, creating a sticky-sweaty sensation in places I would rather not talk about. Even at mid morning, it was already 80 degrees with almost 100% humidity. When my clothes touched my skin, it would leave behind a tell tale mark of perspiration. Prepared with SPF 50, large hats, and tinted shades, we heard our guide remarking "No one has died from the sun, no one had died from curry either". Warm rain kissed the end of the day, leaving behind a wet passionate mark on something that was already hot and steamy.

Driving around the area known as Ayutthaya, we visited a few major temples including the ancient ruins. Danced to the music of the monks, explored the tilted tower and ate lotus nuts and fried bananas. We played a Thia game to tell our fortune; to discover they were almost one of the same with each other's, as our paths intertwined. Buddhas in every position adorn every temple. My favorite one so far is the standing figure with his hand up to "stop". In a world of go-go-go, it is easy to forget what we are doing. So Stop, stop all war, hatred and abuse and let the beauty shine from within.

I had a personal moment while lighting three sticks of incense and making a wish to the reclining Buddha. As I pressed my hands together, bowed my head and incense to the mat, I felt the tip of an Ah Ha moment. Maybe Buddhism is something I should strive for- as I find myself agreeing with the teachings, and a religion without a deity. To believe in one's self is after all a godly power. I came up from the mat with tears and smiles, not really understanding either, but wanting more of both. Later we ate chicken curry conjured in the fires near hell, and soothed the heat with coconut gelly. Garnished with sweet-green rice paste noodles, coconut syrup and slippery seed pods that could have been mistaken for small eye balls- It resembled a dish fit for goolish night, but it was a dish not even the king could turn down.

Tomorrow is a day of adventure and exploring, with a hole in the itinerary, I'm not sure where mischief will find us. I can only hope to discover new ideas, flavors and sights.

-Bobbi

Bangkok - Day 2

2007-10-31T08:36:00.000-07:00

I have seen many things today. The most impressive top three would be the temple with the gold Buddha and the active monks in their saffron robes, and the back alley water ways to the floating market and Cy'an Restaurant where we had the most amazingly posh dinner. Other adventures include making and discovering coconut products, a small allergic to shrimp incident and a touristy show generalizing Thailand for what I call the "roller bagger" type of traveler. We drove all through the back country, gaining trivial information as we observed groves of green mangoes dancing in the wind. Hands of bananas reached down to the ground, and coconuts rocked gently in the mist like breasts on a thin body.

The vegetation reminds me of the old Vietnam War photos I have seen. The tall grasses, the thick underbrush, the muddy canals. In my mind I could see troops in camo gear, carrying 80 pound packs and large guns, dealing with mental and physical injury. Maybe The Things They Carried got read over to many times in high school, but my mind was on the people lost.

There is a huge difference in the Thailand we have chosen to see and the one where locals live; even though we share the same streets. We awoke to hot eggs, croissants rivaled to the ones in Paris, and a large spread of food that seemed very European, especially traditional French. But our guide awoke to a traffic jam with no breakfast, and had to manage over an hour of travel by bus and taxi to arrive in our lobby at 6:45.

The level of service is like no other, with people almost falling over themselves just to open a door or lend a hand. It feels as if someone called the hotel and general staff that we would encounter, told them we were coming and gave them a substantial tip to make sure we are well taken care of. It feels like we have committed a crime of gluttony, as others around us pray for only enough to get through until tomorrow. Maybe it's just the humanitarian in me, but wish I had the power to equalize these forces. After the most amazingly perfect wedding and the beginnings of a fabulous honeymoon, I can't help but to think that if I had made a few sacrifices, others could have more of what they really need.

-Bobbi

Photos:

Arrival in Bangkok

2007-10-30T10:30:00.000-07:00

We have arrived in Bangkok and unlike other countries I have seen, the poverty is available on the first layer. With feral animals that are nothing more than bones covered with parchment, and shacks made of less than a piece of cloth and a few sticks to keep out the sun. In our 45-minute drive from the airport, we have had some humbling experiences and sights. Without our guide, Yo, I don't think we could have found our hotel. Between the chaotic driving, huge language barriers and the gems in the rough, our hotel, tucked in between decomposing buildings resting on streets with unreadable names. I feel so small and out of my own world.

It is a relief to be off the plane, the cramped spaced and the motion sickness was at the level where it was almost unbearable. Though the heat, humidity and jet lag are not welcome alternatives.

I have looked forward towards tomorrow for a long time. We will visit the floating market after we watch Bangkok awake into a bustling city. There is an infectious sense of happiness here, even with the poverty. And a sense of pride, which I am grateful it has been extended in our direction. Yo, has highly recommended walking a few blocks from our hotel to see the four-faced Buddha, where people participate in a Mecca from around the world, to put their knees in dirt and prey under this statue. People donate what they have, from just prayers to fists full of cash in the name of Buddha and to honor and continue his teachings.

-Bobbi

Some Photos here:

Taipei

2007-10-29T16:32:00.000-07:00

We survived the 12 hours flight to Taipei. We are exhausted from ridiculously unsuccessful attempts to sleep on the cramped plane.

We board a plane to Bangkok in an hour or so for the final leg of our journey.

Nothing much else to say, but stay tuned for pictures of Thailand!

We did it!

2007-10-27T16:27:00.000-07:00

We're married!

We had so much fun. Thank you to all of our dear friends and family that attended. Everyone of you made the night as perfect as it could be.

Some initial photos have started to roll in. More will be added soon, but click the image below to see the page that will have all our wedding photosets on it.

Enjoy! Our next post should be from Thailand!

Welcome Freinds and Family!

2007-10-21T23:29:00.000-07:00

As many of you know Alex Wayne and Bobbi Lance are getting married on October 26.
Shortly thereafter, we board a plane to Thailand for a two and a half week honeymoon.

The adventures will be numerous, the bliss tremendous, and the photographs plentiful. Stay tuned as we update this space with our latest activities and photos form half way around the world.