Mahalo

We will be leaving for Hawaii soon, doing very fun things during a summer vacation celebrating Bobbi's 30th birthday! Stay tuned for pictures and reports of all things awesome.

Costa Rica - Day 8

Waking early, I find myself excited and a little frightened at the same time. In about 30 minutes, Alex and I are set up to taste white water. We head towards breakfast to grab some coffee before the drive. The trip includes breakfast and lunch, so all we needed was a change of clothes. After what seemed liked more than 30 minutes, a man asked us for our vouchers… what vouchers? I was never given any vouchers, all I had was a kinda confirmation e-mail. But that is how most places roll, to say ya ya ok-if you show up you’re confirmed. In my broken Spanglish, I managed to figure out that the rafting trip was never confirmed due to error on the hotel. We had to renegotiate breakfast because the first time through we only got coffee- assuming there would breakfast on the bus. Tired, cold and hungry, I called upstairs to wake my best friend.

Starting the day over with my camera in tow, we scheduled a tour of a local coffee plantation. Café Brit was located about 40 minutes from town and was half the price of the rafting trip. Once on the property, a few slap-stick actors explained how coffee was grown, picked and processed. Coming form wine-county, it all had a familiar flavor. I was glad to learn that at home, we are taking the right steps towards sustainable coffee. Most of the mega-large coffee growers grow in cleared patches of the rain forest with little shade and lots of harsh chemicals. A few of the higher end coffees are grown in large crops with a few trees dotting the crop for cooling shade and range the full spectrum from organic to heavily processed. The best coffees, both tasting and sustainable are biodynamically grown under naturally occurring canopies. At home we have recently switched from Illy- one of my favorite food loves, to an environmentally friendly locally produced coffee that tastes just as good.

Later, in the Central Market, my camera did little but make me look like I had something valuable to steal. The $2000 worth of plastic and glass tucked tightly under my arm, and strapped across my back, would have meant half a year of feasting to any local that could manage to get my investment from my grips.

Costa Rica - Day 7

In the breakfast line, I could feel my stomach churning because of the greasy smelling food. Even juice repulsed me. I knew I should eat because I haven’t for three days, but I just couldn’t find it in me. The drive later would be long, and I am not about to spend four hours in the car feeling ill again.

Strangely, I look forward to being driven through the rain forest on my way to the next destination. It really gives me a sense of the town and the culture. This day, like most we have spent here in Costa Rica, it is raining with a chance of meatballs. Thick clouds swirl around the summit of one of the mountains we cross, making it difficult to see. But it adds to magic of the misty rainforest. Ten feet from the side of our van, is a jungle ravine that plunges straight down. Inches from our wheels, there is a drainage run-off area that is nearly three feet wide and just as deep. The road switches left, then right and then left again. All the while, aggressive drivers pass on blind curves and double yellow lines. Our own van is too close for comfort to the next car in line. I can barely read the next license plate number from my position in the middle seat. Giving in to the fact that this is third world driving, in a foreign county, I decide it’s best not to tell the diver how I think he should be driving. I just kept my eyes on the road. Seconds later it all turned to shit. Two car spaces ahead of us a jeep misjudged the power of the wet road. They tried to correct and that only got them in more trouble. The passenger wheel grabbed the edge of the drainage ditch and started to pull the jeep in. Just like it was rehearsed, the back wheel left the ground and the underside of the rental car was visible. The three tires I could see- all in the air, where all spinning. As the jeep continued to go over, glass sprayed across the road and the top crunched in like a coke can. The jeep finally came to a rest, perpendicular to the road and upside-down in the ditch. I could see luggage tossed about, looking like linen in the dryer. Another car about ten behind us skidded in to the drainage area after it came around a blind curve. The eight or so of us in the van were dazed and grateful for our own safety. Watching the car to see if any emerges, I bravely claim, “what if they’re hurt, we need to help them!” All us snapped out of the daze and went for the door. In the second between getting out of the car and looking up again, someone else was already reaching their arms into the overturned jeep. Out came a woman looking more concerned about what was still in the car more then her own life. Our driver then shouts in Spanish to get back in the van, and close the door. A man is now being pulled from a broken window. He has blood on his arm from the glass, but looks mostly ok and undamaged. With us safely back in the car, the driver starts to direct traffic around a blind corner while others direct around the other blind corner behind us. Minutes ago at the summit, I saw a yellow emergency truck that looked like it could go any where and tow any thing. I thought it was odd to be parked at the summit waiting for something to happen. But this is their turf, not mine. They know that when the clouds touch the ground and the roads are wet, people are at the mercy of the rainforest. It would only take a few minutes for word to get around the corner. Drivers eager to get to where ever they are going, start weaving around parked cars and over shoulders that don’t exist. Other drivers start to pass each other and there is now two lanes of cars honking in both directions on a lane that barely contained two single lanes of order. The flashing lights of the truck on steroids crept around the corner. With traffic going every which way the road was impassable. Grabbing their gear, the crew ran to the jeep and starting assessing the situation. Being that we were at the front of the traffic jam, the driver started the van and left the tourist in better hands.
Arriving in San Jose still shaken from the accident, we decided it was best to go to our rooms for a while before dinner. The city was dirty and dark with a creepy vibe even though the sun was still up. Our room couldn’t be more opposite to the city. With a double sized Jacuzzi tub as the main feature of the room, white linens over a king sized bed and décor that felt like it was out of a magazine, I felt like I had found a retreat from all the adventure.

Costa Rica - Day 6

Stepping out of the hotel and looking left, I saw nothing but black sand, blue water and swaying palms. I looked right and was tickled to see more of the same. Straight ahead, only two shades of blue- one for the Pacific Ocean and one for the sky. The sun was hot and ocean wasn’t far behind. Locals have warned us that the rip tide is worst here in front of our hotel and that we should walk down the beach a few hundred meters.

Janie and Ty have rented boogie-boards to help us pass the time. It’s been a long time since I felt the glee of being a child, but being pushed along the shore with sand in my suit and sun on my back, I felt like I had finally gotten that pony I had been asking for. My smile only faded long enough to spit out the salty and sometimes sandy water. My amigos share this joy, as we trade taking turns on the boards for napping on the beach.

Still unable to eat solid food, we ordered a fresh coconut. At least the juice would give me a little blood sugar. The coconut slinging team said it would cost about 500 colones or about $1 USD. We handed them a 10,000 colones bill and the guy without the machete said he would be right back with cambio or change. Change never came and we were out about $20- our only cash on the beach without going back the hotel. Broke, tired and nowhere to go, I decided to just to nap and people watch until my last turn on the boogie board. Being on a beautiful beach in Costa Rica: $2,000, drinking a coconut: $1, getting ripped off by the dude selling something that grows on every tree around: priceless.

In the water, my skin stung as if I had been slapped with something. Around my feet and belly felt like they were on fire. Getting out to return the boards, I noticed the first sign that I was finally on vacation. I had forgotten my sun screen applying techniques, and applied while wearing clothes. So now my clothes mostly off, I looked like a white and red candy-cane thing of a human. Some how, since I have traveled last, I have gone from being an experienced world traveler to being a first timer gringo. I have the clear stamps across my belly and feet, an empty wallet and still a touch a bad chicken to prove it.

Costa Rica - Day 5

At breakfast, the world wasn’t quite straight. I didn’t have the strength to figure it out, but something was to one side of normal. Twisting and turning as we climbed out of the rainforest on our way to Jaco, it finally became very clear what was wrong. At first it was small waves of nausea with a sour tummy. Then it was absolutely something I had to deal with, NOW! So much for living like the locals- and eating their food… Maybe if I just keep my eyes on the ground, I’ll make it to the beach and then I’ll be ready to concur the world again. The road bends sharply to the right, and left. The driver then hits the gas to pass only to jerk the van back into the beach going lane. My eyes feel like they are floating on my lunch from the day before. Turning on the ac and sipping on my filtered water seem to ease the feelings for a few minutes. Christian, the driver informs me that because of construction, the drive is going to be 4 hours instead of two and half. That’s when I knew I was hosed. More sharp curves and passing on blind corners with steep gorges to one side or the other. I can only hope no one else can tell that I was white and clammy with my breakfast about ready for it’s encore.

Later at the beach I was in no condition to be in the sun, playing in the undulating water. I retreated to the hotel, while my amigos partied forward. I heard tales of beer, sunscreen and dancing into the night. So much for trying to experience local life.

Costa Rica - Day 4

We are at the top of the canopy, touching the rain before it touches the ground. The wildlife has created a cacophony for all to hear for miles. Insects give off a loud high-voltage noise, monkeys chatter, the howler monkeys have kind of a growling-hooping call, and the birds screech and whistle over each other. Most of the forest is shrouded with mysterious mist, keeping it sacred secrets. I am snapped out of my daze when I hear the tell tale clip-snap of a carabiner, and then the guide says “ok go!”. Oh dear god what have I done? I know I’m not one to pray, but maybe this is good time to start. All the sounds of the jungle are replaced by a wizzzzizzizizizizizizizzizzzzzzz and all I see is a cable going into the mist. So if there is a God, now would be the time to forgive me for whatever I might have done, PLEASE! No reply, just more wizzzizzzz. My feet are 60 meters from the ground and my end destination is concealed by this damn mist. And oh the rain… it’s just greasing this one centimeter life line that hangs from the sky. Oh God, why did I agree to this, what have I done? The tops of the canopy have released me into the sky and over a gorge, and now the 60 meters have turned uncountable. To afraid to scream, I took my chances with praying again. PLEASE, please, someone just get me off this thing, ALIVE... There is nothing, no booming voice of God, no monkey chatter, no birds, just more wizzzizizizzz- when finally I can see our guide give me the brake signal. Rob and Danny, the two that went before me are laughing with adrenaline. Well if they did ok, then maybe I just might make it, maybe my prayers were heard after all. With my feet back on the platform, I become overwhelmed with trembles. There’s only one way out of this, and that is to ride these cables all the way down to the rainforest floor. Before I can get my wits back, Alex is arriving on the platform. I have never been so happy to see someone. Just eight more lines to go and then we repel 100 feet into a waterfall ravine. Oh boy, it’s gonna be a long hour.



Horses met us in the ravine and lazily trotted up back up to the top of the canopy. Alexander and Kevin lead us to a typical Tico home where the horses are bound and given water. It is only mid-morning, but I don’t think I have an ounce of adrenaline left for more adventures. My belly is aching for food and my mind is raw from descending the canopy with less than an inch of wire and a small metal clip for a lifeline.

We are meeting our friends in town for lunch-to live like locals and relax for a while. After planning such a fabulous trip with my best friend and her boyfriend, I haven‘t really spent much time with them. We have both been going our own ways. And using up my adventure card earlier, I really think it’s something we all need.

Costa Rica - Day 3

Finally, we have a chance to explore a town and not just a forest. La Fortuna- named for being narrowly missed in the violent (Mt. St. Helens style) eruption of 1968, is a small town. I would say smaller or equal to my hometown back in California. Like most tourist driven areas, there are many shops with handy craft souvenirs, however I know better. Most of these wares are crafted in China with a large logo across the front that reads: COSTA RICA~ PURA VIDA! I bring my tourism dollar to another country in an effort to view the locals, their crafts and support a sometimes failing economy. So today the souvenirs will wait.

It is raining, but that goes with territory of a rain forest… we are well prepared to be in the rain so hopefully it will keep the crowds down. Something else is calling to me besides the shopping. Something that is almost free. La Catarata, or waterfall, of Arenal. This photo-fabulous fall is over 150 meters of water pouring from a pinpoint off a cliff into a gorge. The hike down is tough, steep and muddy but so very worth every step. The aqua colored pools below are calling my name. Unprepared without a suit, I zipped off the bottom half of my pants and walked in to about my thighs. If this wasn’t such a tourist hole, I might have unzipped everything, put the camera on the shore and went for it anyway. We then ate a very satisfying picnic lunch out in the middle of water, resting on a boulder. Accidentally, I fed a fish when I dropped a cracker crumb into the water. Calling all of his fish-friends, I soon had a school of medium sized fish dashing and swirling about our feet.

Later, we were shuttled to Baldí Hot Springs, the main competition for Tobacón a few kilometers down the road. The man-made and spring fed pools ranged from 88° F to 116° F. We found privacy at every turn. We felt as if we the only ones there. Salsa music rattled from old speakers while bartenders at three swim-up bars mixed $10.00 concoctions. Baldí is not as natural, but possibly more fun than Tobacón.